The Roussillon region of south-west France is a wild and rugged area of low mountains, forming the foothills of the Pyrenean Mountain range. The rocky terrain consists largely of decomposed granite soils and at altitude, the vines really have to struggle – all to the good for making great wine, albeit in limited quantities. The Fenouillèdes region is a remote corner of the Eastern Pyrenées and a respected local grower Gérard Gauby teamed up in the 1990s with UK wine importers Roy Richards and Mark Walford, to create high quality wines from this cooler area, at altitudes of 1000 to 2000 feet.

Not for the faint hearted, centuries old vineyards were cultivated and developed on the rocky mountainous slopes, teeming with wild boar, deer and other wildlife. The first vintage was in 2001 and there are now 21 ha of vines, grown biodynamically since 2008, on the estate named Domaine Le Soula. Rising stars of the Roussillon region, these wines have great concentration, complexity and depth, resulting from fastidious attention to work both in the low-yielding vineyards and in the winery. Serious wines with individuality and character which contrast sharply with the cheap and cheerful wines normally produced in the Roussillon.

South African Wendy Wilson took over as winemaker in 2016, crafting wines which age magnificently, from unusual blends of mainly local grape varieties. Designated as Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes, the Appellation Controlée regulations are too restrictive for what these producers wish to achieve, the resultant wines vindicating their decisions in large measure. These remarkable wines have astonishing vitality, yet have a freshness imparted by the high-altitude vineyards, buffeted by the cold winds of the Tramontane.

Le Soula is now found in many of the leading restaurants around the world and is available in this country from top London Wine Merchants Berry Bros & Rudd and from renowned regional merchants Tanners of Shrewsbury.

Le Soula Blanc 2017 is made from an eclectic mix of grape varieties, nearly 50% of which is Sauvignon Blanc, with substantial amounts of Vermentino, Grenache Blanc and Macabeo, with smaller contributions of Grenache Gris, Malvoisie du Roussillon, Marsanne and Roussane. Very aromatic on the nose, ageing for nearly 2 years in a combination of old wood, new oak and stainless steel tanks gives great complexity and finesse, whilst still maintaining freshness and elegance. Price per bottle is around £30-£35. The Wine Society has the 2016 vintage at a bargain £27. The wine will age well for at least a further 5 years but is already magnificent.

Le Soula Rouge is from a more traditional southern French varietal mix of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache, with Carignan dominating. Deep, dark and brooding rich, full-bodied red, with pure, ripe red berry fruit and a smoky, mineral edge. Aged for nearly 2 years in wooden vats and tanks and large barrels, complexity, finesse and elegance also applies to this exceptional red. The 2014 vintage is available from The Wine Society at £28 and from other regional wine specialists.

Tremendous artisan wines of special character, from the rugged mountains and harsh climate of the Roussillon.